canadianstreetcar.com canadianstreetcar.com
September 07, 2010, 12:40:24 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News:
Don't forget to check out the gallery
 
Pages: [1] 2
  Print  
Author Topic: Thermostat and Heat Question  (Read 221 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Brandon
Junior Member
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Age: 22
Location: Whitby, Ontario
Posts: 12



WWW
« on: July 08, 2010, 02:15:29 AM »

Ok, So I've always had an issue with the heat of my motor. So I've got to ask, Which is better for a 350 chevy small block?
I had a 160 degree thermostat that kept the motor at 180.. but if I was stuck in traffic for too long or if it where a hot day it would just keep climbing unless I kept moving.

I replaced it with a 180 degree thermostat, now this would go to about 200 and about 210 at a stand still. But would open and cool the motor to about 185 until the temperature would increase to 210 or so and then shoot back down.

I replaced it again with a 160 when i got my new intake.
Now I was talking to my uncle and he said the 180 was better, since it gave the coolant time to cool down before it was released into the motor.

So, I'm wondering if anyone has any thoughts or suggestions for me... without having to buy a new aluminum or new fan?

I'm replacing my water neck and figured I'd either put the 180 back in or keep the 160, depending on what answers I get :P
Logged

1985 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (summer)
1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (winter)
http://www.durhamgbodyscarclub.com/
R/T kota
Administrator
Senior Member
******
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Location: Hamilton Ontario
Posts: 1712


my site and I'll do what I want


« Reply #1 on: July 08, 2010, 03:45:58 PM »

Stick with the 180 or even try a 185/190.
Your uncle is right, the longer you keep the coolant in the rad the better.
Your cooling system can't keep up with the 160 and your stat will stay wide open.
Are you still running the mechanical fan? Do you still have the factory shroud?
Also on the G body cars there is an air damper that bolts under the rad support to grab more air. Is that still on? Has it been replaced with the shorter one from the 6 cylinder cars? Makes a big difference.
Logged

94 Impala SS
80 malibu (Under construction)
87 turbo regal
2002 R/T dakota sold
Brandon
Junior Member
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Age: 22
Location: Whitby, Ontario
Posts: 12



WWW
« Reply #2 on: July 08, 2010, 11:53:24 PM »

Its a mechanical fan.. but its a flex fan. I've heard people say switch it back to a plan metal fan
The shroud is just one of those chrome pieces. I was thinking about getting the bottom half of the shroud and puting that on and seeing how much better it gets.

Air damper? its that piece just under the rad? ya I've got that still on (I even clean it -_-)... but my car was orginally a 6 cylinder and the last owner dropped in the v8. I bet its the smaller one. I have an 1988 Olds I run in the winter with a 307. Would that fit onto my 85? Figure its in the winter heat isn't an issue :P

Logged

1985 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (summer)
1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (winter)
http://www.durhamgbodyscarclub.com/
axisg
Full Member
****
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Location: YYZ
Posts: 262



« Reply #3 on: July 09, 2010, 11:03:02 AM »

ditch the flex fan before you hurt someone .  A stock fan with a good / new clutch works great and the 180 thermostat keeps the heat at a reasonable level.  The fan shroud maximizes the pull from your fan and without it the car will run hot.  The air deflector on the bottom helps direct clean air to the rad while the car is moving 

Shortly after I bought my car I spent $ 150.00 for a new rad ( early 90's Fbody it's alum with plastic tanks and drop in for Gbodies ) and a new clutch for my stock fan.  My car will run at 180 all-day and then only bump up to 210 max in a long timmies lineup or heavy stop and go traffic.

If you have no shroud now it may be a good time to pull a set of elec fans from a donor.  You already have the olds top-plate to mount everything to you just need a couple of relays and a temp sensor kit. 
Logged
R/T kota
Administrator
Senior Member
******
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Location: Hamilton Ontario
Posts: 1712


my site and I'll do what I want


« Reply #4 on: July 09, 2010, 11:50:45 AM »

Ya the air deflector/damper is the long plastic part under the rad support. The ones on the v8 cars were about 4 inches longer on both sides.
I would ditch the flex fan if its one of those riveted metal ones. They can be dangerous. You can get a plastic flex that works pretty good but if your not worried about losing a few ponies, get a good clutch fan. 
Logged

94 Impala SS
80 malibu (Under construction)
87 turbo regal
2002 R/T dakota sold
Brandon
Junior Member
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Age: 22
Location: Whitby, Ontario
Posts: 12



WWW
« Reply #5 on: July 09, 2010, 02:14:47 PM »

Yup.. its one of those flex fans..... Last owner put it on. Everyone I talk to says to get rid of it lol.

I'll replace the thermostat for now. And start looking around for clutch fan, shroud and the deflector. Possibly get an aluminum rad this winter ($300 instore credit for Karbelt I need to put to good use).

I don't mind loosing a few hp if I know my engine isn't going to over heat lol.

Logged

1985 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (summer)
1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (winter)
http://www.durhamgbodyscarclub.com/
axisg
Full Member
****
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Location: YYZ
Posts: 262



« Reply #6 on: July 13, 2010, 01:41:31 PM »

"if" you don't have a shroud and deflector save your money and take the next step ( providing you still have the Olds top-plate ).  Pull a pair of elec fans from an Intrepid.  Lotsa writeups on the-net that will make it easy and its cheaper than trying to find a decent shroud and a new clutchfan ( unless you have your own stash of parts ).  The Intrepid fans pull some good air and cover most of the rad with thier own built in shroud.
http://www.montecarloss.com/community/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=810030#Post810030



« Last Edit: July 14, 2010, 12:24:48 PM by axisg » Logged
Brandon
Junior Member
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Age: 22
Location: Whitby, Ontario
Posts: 12



WWW
« Reply #7 on: August 01, 2010, 05:34:29 PM »

I'd rather stay away form electric fans. I'd prefer to stick to something thats always on.
But the fan thats on there now seems odd.. It'll blow air around. Maybe its just me though, but the air feels hotter then the air in the atmosphere...

Well I just replaced the waterneck and a new high flow 180 thermo from Mr.Gasket. Now.. I thought the thermo would stay closed, then at 180 open and cool the motor, close back up and give the coolant time to get cold in the rad. Well it seems to run at a constant 190 now.. until my car gets heated up and is at a stop sign or light where it slowly creeps up again.

Now.. the thing I can think of is the fact my car was a V6... maybe the last owner never swapped out the rad?

I guess my plan now is to buy an aluminum rad and put a shroud that will fit around my clutch fan even if I have to make one.
Logged

1985 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (summer)
1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (winter)
http://www.durhamgbodyscarclub.com/
R/T kota
Administrator
Senior Member
******
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Location: Hamilton Ontario
Posts: 1712


my site and I'll do what I want


« Reply #8 on: August 01, 2010, 06:41:30 PM »

An electric fan will work the same way as a stat. Wont turn on until needed but you can hook up an over ride switch for those days you need some more air.
The air coming off your fan will feel warmer than atmospheric air because it is pulling air through your rad. The air warms as it passes through the hot rad. The fans job is to pull cooler air through the rad more than to blow air on the motor.
Logged

94 Impala SS
80 malibu (Under construction)
87 turbo regal
2002 R/T dakota sold
440truck
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Location: Shelburne, ONT
Posts: 224



« Reply #9 on: August 01, 2010, 07:54:53 PM »

Nothing wrong with electric fans.  5 times as efficient, and they are OE on almost everything now so it's not they're gadgets or gimmicks.
Logged

'06 Silverado DD
'77 D150 original 440
'86 D150 (not sure what I'm doing with it yet)
Brandon
Junior Member
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Age: 22
Location: Whitby, Ontario
Posts: 12



WWW
« Reply #10 on: August 01, 2010, 08:01:36 PM »

Alright cool.
Well I was looking at some stuff off Summit racing. I found a couple of different things.
I found this rad.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRI-8-00008/
and these fans
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRM-19515/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-292/

or I found these which come with a rad and fan
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BCI-80018/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BCI-83018/

What do you think is a better way to go? I'm thinking the seperate way is cheaper... but when i search for fans for my olds noting but clutch fans come up, But those Rad and fan kits do.

Now my car still has a manual switch from when it had electric fans. I'd love to (if possible) Have them wired or set up so they come on when my engine starts so I don't have to worry about them. Is there a downside to having them run all the time?
Logged

1985 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (summer)
1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (winter)
http://www.durhamgbodyscarclub.com/
R/T kota
Administrator
Senior Member
******
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Location: Hamilton Ontario
Posts: 1712


my site and I'll do what I want


« Reply #11 on: August 01, 2010, 08:15:42 PM »

Having the fan on all the time will burn the motor out faster.
The factory twin fans on my impala quit on me not too long ago. I didnt want to pay what they wanted for replacement motors so I went with an aftermarket fan off the shelf at PI. I got a good deal thanks to a discount but that same fan is under 200. I have it wired to the harness that the factory fans worked off of but if you get the right kit with a thermostatic switch and an override you should be ok.
Logged

94 Impala SS
80 malibu (Under construction)
87 turbo regal
2002 R/T dakota sold
Brandon
Junior Member
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Age: 22
Location: Whitby, Ontario
Posts: 12



WWW
« Reply #12 on: August 01, 2010, 08:19:03 PM »

When should a fan come on? I mean I know the fans purpose is to cool the rad, which cools the coolant.
Should I have it set to turn on the same time as the thermostat opens since the coolant moving into the rad would be hot?
Logged

1985 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (summer)
1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (winter)
http://www.durhamgbodyscarclub.com/
R/T kota
Administrator
Senior Member
******
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Location: Hamilton Ontario
Posts: 1712


my site and I'll do what I want


« Reply #13 on: August 01, 2010, 10:14:21 PM »

usually in a car with a factory electric fan the fan will come on about 10 degrees hotter than what the ideal operating temp is and then shut off at the operating temp.
When the car is moving, air is going through the rad anyways so at those times there is no need for a fan. Set up that way, the fan should only turn on in traffic or during long idle times.
Logged

94 Impala SS
80 malibu (Under construction)
87 turbo regal
2002 R/T dakota sold
Brandon
Junior Member
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Age: 22
Location: Whitby, Ontario
Posts: 12



WWW
« Reply #14 on: August 01, 2010, 10:59:50 PM »

Alright.
well Right now with the highflow 180 stat it runs about when I'm moving, the old 160 stat ran at a constant 180 when moving. From what I've found online anywhere from 190 - 200 is normal for a 350.. is it true?
It's just when I'm stopped it keeps climbing with either the 160 or 180.

now.. If I get a new aluminum rad with electric fans should I switch the stat back to a high flow 160 and set the fans to come on at about 185-190?
or should I stick to the 180 stat that runs at a constant 190 and have the fans come on at 195?
Logged

1985 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (summer)
1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (winter)
http://www.durhamgbodyscarclub.com/
Pages: [1] 2
  Print  
 
Jump to: